Schoolhouse Rock

I awoke this morning to the sound of children’s voices. As I went out to brew my first cup of instant coffee, a real treat here in Cambodia, I looked below, and realized I am directly next to an elementary school! The shutters were wide open, and the faces of the children, bright and eager to learn. What a delightful thing to see! I’d post a picture, but I don’t feel like I should.

Yesterday was just beautiful. Richard, newfound friend I met on the flight from Seoul to Phnom Penh, texted to see if I wanted to toole around town with him. Of course, I said yes. I was feeling a bit intimidated at going out on my own. As I was trying to cross a busy intersection, much as it was an Italy, it was nearly impossible. Pedestrians do not have the right of way here. Before I knew it, a young man in a tuk-tuk approached me and was trying to point out the crosswalk. He found a place to park and came over with some laminated pamphlets while asking if I wanted to tour with him that day. I kept trying to tell him no, that I was just looking to meet a friend and wander around, but he was insistent. I finally asked how much he would charge, and he said he didn’t care how much money he made, he just wanted to work that day. I tried to say no because I was a bit skeptical and unsure of what my ‘bill’ would be. He was insistent, but at last he said, “At least let me get you across the road safely.”

I was so touched by that that I asked if I could text my friend to see if he’d be interested in a three hour tour. Richard was, and he sent a picture of where he could be found so Taai, tuk-tuk driver, knew where to pick him up. I climbed aboard and we set off to gather Richard.

What followed was an unimagineably wonderful day. We first stopped for iced coffees and invited Taai to join us, which he gladly did. His English was surprisingly well, and he said everything he learned was from transporting Americans on his tuk-tuk. He said he would listen carefully, and then practice when he got home at night the words he had newly learned. He said he had grown up in an orphanage, and that he didn’t remember his parents. When I asked how old he was when he went into the orphanage, he simply showed me how tall he was because he didn’t know how old he was. I have a feeling his parents may have been killed in the genocide, but again, he just didn’t know. He said he had his own tuk-tuk at one time, but when the world shut down for COVID, he had to sell it to stay alive. Now he is renting the one he is using, and he said he literally lives from day-to-day. If he finds work in a given day, he has food to eat. He pays $18 a month for a small, shared room with three other men. They cook, bathe and shower outside. I was incredibly humbled at being able to spend the day with him. He was so kind and sincere. He joined us for our lunch, and then went off to get a haircut while Richard and I (and soon to join us Lance 😂) enjoyed a sunset boat ride on the river. He laughed and seems surprised when I noticed his new hairstyle! He was there waiting for us, to deliver us back to our respective homtels afterwards. This morning he will pick me up, along with Richard, and we will spend another day exploring this intriguing city. Richard asked asked if he would continue to be his personal driver for the next two weeks while he explores living options in Cambodia. Taai quickly agreed. I am grateful for the presence of this ‘angel in skin’ to be with me during my initial days in Phnom Penh.Lance. Another new friend we met on the boat.

I am rushing through as I write this, because my friends are on their way to collect me. I apologize in advance for any errors, but I simply don’t have the time to proofread just now. More to come!